By Elizabeth Rostan, M.D. Charlotte Skin & Laser
Ahh summer – the pool, the beach, trips to the lake – all create wonderful fun memories but can wreak havoc on your hair. End of summer hair is often lighter in color and more dry and brittle with more “fly- aways”. What is this all about?
The main cause of damage to the hair is UV or sunlight exposure. Sun causes the formation of oxymelanin in the hair shaft which is damaging and breaks down keratin, the main protein component of hair. This also causes lightening of your hair color – blondes turn yellow and brunettes go more red. Damage to the hair shaft can result in hair breakage and loss, and UV damaged hair does not hold hair color well, and is frizzy.
Add to wind to summer sun with a windy day at the beach, or going for a ride in a boat or a convertible, and there’s more damage to your hair. Wind contributes to dehydration of the hair, and dry hair is more brittle and frizzy. In addition, the wind physically traumatizes your hair, causes breakage with exposure, and makes it more prone to breakage later.
How can you prevent sun damage? There are shampoos, conditioners and sprays that contain sunscreen. These may be helpful, but have not been studied so no claims can be made. Also, as soon as hair gets wet any sunscreen is removed.
The best protection remains a hat or umbrella. Gray hair is most susceptible to UV damage, but the good news is that hair color provides some protection.
How do you fix sun damaged hair? To make the hair more healthy, you need to replace moisture and protein. The main essential fatty acid or oil in the hair is 18-methyl eicosanoic acid or 18-MEA. FUN FACT: Beavers can live in the winter in very cold water because they have a thick fur coat with hair that contains an extremely high level of 18-MEA that makes them basically waterproof. (just a bit of trivia for your next cocktail party conversation).
Argan oil and Moroccan oil are high in essential fatty acids that most closely resemble 18-MEA. These are found in hair care products and can be used to replenish moisture to the hair shaft.
Using Sulfate free shampoos remove less natural oil – or sebum- from the hair and are purported to be less drying, but they will not lather quite like your usual shampoo. Dimethicone is another popular ingredient in hair products to replace moisture and smooth the damaged hair shaft (less frizz).
Protein containing shampoos and conditioners attempt to replenish lost protein in damaged hair. A more intense treatment would be a leave in product such as a protein pack or mask which can infuse up to 5% protein into the hair shaft.
Lastly, postpone any chemical or color treatment to your hair until damage is improved. And as we head into the fall & winter months, it is important to remember how drying the heated air can be to your hair. You may need to supplement your hair with some of the above mentioned products to have the wonderful winter wonderland hair.
